Tips To Look Perfect When Photographed



The following tips can also be used as a guide for your model photos to look perfect when photographed:

Facing to the right

A U.S. study conducted by Wake Forest University found that the left side of the face is more attractive than the right. Apparently, the left side shows a lot more emotion. So, to get a picture perfect face, menolehlah slightly to the right to show the "best" you. It also can help give the illusion of a slimmer face for those who have a round face.

Choose makeup carefully

For the perfect performance-ready photo, make sure you avoid bouncing or foundations that made mineral containing titanium dioxide (pigment reflective) in high numbers. Although the foundation for glowing appearance everyday, camera flash can quickly change your dewy skin becomes pale as a ghost when white light bouncing back from the camera.

Highlight your best features

To look glamorous in the photo, make sure you confirm your favorite features to make it stand out in the photo. Try playing with eyeliner or false eyelashes. Or, slumbering lips with brightly colored lipstick. Do not forget, highlight the best shape of your body with clothing that supports the body's shape and color.

Do not look into the lens

No one wanted her eyes look red or half closed as it will damage the image, so make sure you avoid this by focusing the eyes slightly up or down the lens. Look directly into the lens can cause light illuminates the retina, which can make the effects of red-eye or red eye. Looking slightly away from the camera will also reduce the risk for half the flash when photographed.

Avoid red eye photo

Your eyes can appear red because of the reflection of light from the back of the eye. You have large pupils are more prone to get the problem. If you look away from the camera does not work, another way to reduce red-eye effect is make sure the photo was taken in a well lit room or see a bright light just before the shooting to make pupilmu shrink.

Avoid appears to have chins

There is nothing worse than to see a picture of you with chins. But unfortunately this often happens to us. To avoid the appearance of chins in the photo, make sure the camera is above or at eye level. And also try to highlight a slight cock of the head and a bit of jaw - you might have to train it first in front of the mirror to still look natural!

Avoid direct light

Maybe we can not always be set up lighting for photo shoots and, unless you happen to be a professional model, most likely you will not be helped by someone to make sure the right light in the shooting. However, it is important to remember that direct light from above can cause shadows on the face and accentuate shadows under the eyes. Choose a place with soft lighting or shade when outdoors.

Posing like a pro

If you're posing for a photo on the whole body, try a classic style celebrity by turning your body three quarters of the camera, with one shoulder closer to the camera and one foot in front of the other. This will make your body look slimmer than if you're facing the camera directly. Try to keep your back straight with your shoulders back and hold to the back of the abdomen (but not too bloated as it might seem far-fetched).

Master the perfect smile

Many of us focus on the mouth when smiling, but, to borrow a phrase from supermodel Tyra Banks, the most important is "smize or smiling with your eyes (smile with your eyes). Rather than forcing a smile, think of something that makes you happy to get a smile more natural. You also might want to enhance your smile itself in order to highlight your strong suit. example, radiant smile will look very good for people with immaculate teeth, while a more relaxed half-smile will make small eyes appear larger and fuller looking lips.

Practice posemu

If you really want perfect pictures, the best thing you can do is to practice first. Practice facial expressions and body angle, smile and different facial expressions to find what can make you look stunning, both in front of the mirror or the camera itself. Once you find the look you like, you're ready to use it andalanmu pose in every photo opportunity, make sure you always look perfect.

Best Lens You Have The Obligation



50mm Lens : Lens with a focal length of 50mm is popular among photographers for viewing in its focus area is roughly equal to what you see with your own eyes. There is no distortion (curvature resulting from the photos due to the curvature of the lens) such as ultra wide lens and no compression as a telephoto lens. Therefore, a 50mm lens should not be regarded as an "honest" or the image produced by the lens looks similar to what is seen by the eye.



When buying a DSLR camera, most novice photographer will take pictures with the kit lens or standard lens luggage until they will realize how useful a 50mm lens with a wide aperture to produce stunning photos, so a 50mm lens is one of the must-have by photographer.

Here are the reasons why every photographer should have a 50mm lens:

1. Field of view lens is almost the same as the area of ​​the eye
Almost all lenses produce some form of distortion in an image, in contrast to a 50mm lens that minimizes distortion and produce a result similar to what is seen by the eye, 50mm lens mimics the human eye view of the area and will be translated into your photo. This is why some people call sebalagi called "normal lens." When combined with a good photographic techniques, you can produce images that seems real with your current actual shooting.

2. Optical lens better
Basically, the photographer has a lot of things into consideration when choosing lenses, including but not limited to; speeds, optical, and price. Optics from a 50mm lens is often much better than the zoom lens at the same price. Prime lens (no zoom lens, only has one focal length) have parts that move less than zoom lens so that the optical lens manufacturer can use a better (sharper images) and offer lower prices.

3. Reasonably priced 50mm lens
Some 50mm lens has a fairly cheap price as the price for a Canon 50mm f1.8 lens which revolves around the price of 800 thousand-an (dollars, check prices). If you want a lens with a higher level of quality, you have to spend millions of dollars more to get it. The lens is a lens that is highly sought after Panasonic / Leica 25mm F1.4 that cost around 8 million's of dollars. In general, the lens aperture required is approximately f1.8, Canon 50mm f1.8 so fitting for you who have a limited budget but want to produce amazing photos.


Tips to Get Photo Bokeh



Bokeh comes from the Japanese word boke (ボケ) which means blur (blurred). Bokeh is a subtle blur effect or soft focus in the background when photographing an object (the main focus sharply on objects as its background blur or become blurred).

Here are tips to get bokeh photo with DSLR camera:

Use Aperture Priority mode (Av) or Manual mode (M) to select the desired aperture.

Choose the settings of the largest aperture of the lens (figure f / x the smallest, the smaller the number of f / x the aperture the greater).

Note the distance between the camera and the object image. The closer the camera is to the object of his photos then the background blur (bokeh).

Choose a focal length lengsa the longest. With the longest focal length to separate the object image with its background. Example: when you use a 55-250mm zoom lens, focal length 250mm choose to get better bokeh.

Use the prime lens (prime lens or fixed lens). Prime lens is a lens with a single focal length lens with no zoom alias that can produce a sharper picture and better its optical quality of the lens zoom. Prime lenses usually have a larger aperture that is used to produce good bokeh (eg 50mm f/1.8 lens).

Understanding Codes In DSLR Camera Lenses


At the time of first entering the world of DSLR cameras, one of the confusing aspects is to translate the codes listed in the label of a lens. In this article will explain several kinds of lenses and codes contained in the lens. For his case I will use Canon lenses.

Canon EF-S 18-55  f/3.5-5.6  IS
These lenses are usually a package deal if purchased as a kit lens Canon DSLR camera that entry level or beginner such as the Canon 1100D, 550D and 600D.

Canon EF-S: EF stands for Electro Focus. The lens of this model is designed specifically for DSLR cameras with a small sensor type (cropped sensor). This type of lens can not be mounted on a DSLR camera has a full frame sensor like the Canon 5D or 1D.

18-55 mm: Is the range of focal length lens (focal length is the distance between the optical center of the lens to the focal point located on the camera sensor). 18-55mm focal length of the lens is equivalent to a focal length of 29-88mm on a full frame sensor camera. Range of the focal length is versatile enough for everyday use.

f/3.5-5.6: This code describes the range of the lens aperture or lens opening. At 18mm focal length, the lens has a maximum aperture of f/3.5. And at 55mm focal length, maximum aperture is f/5.6 lens.

IS: Is Image Stabilizer, which means that the lens has the ability to reduce vibration or vibration during shooting so photos that are sharp. This feature is especially useful when shooting with a lamba Shutter Speed

- Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM 




If you find a lens with a minimum aperture is only one set, like f/2.8 lens, this means that the widest aperture lens has a fixed or unchanging. Focal length from 17mm to 55mm focal length, maximum aperture of f/2.8 fixed at a value.

USM: Abbreviation for Ultrasonic Motor, meaning the lens there is a built-in motor for auto focus. In this lens auto focus is faster and the bike is not noisy.

- Canon EF 50mm f/1.8
The lens has a range above the focus, which is 50mm. This means that the lens is not a zoom lens or can not zoom. You can not change the focal length to zoom in or out objects. To do so, you must do it manually by running toward or away from the object. The lens type is more commonly known as the prime lens.

This lens is also characterized by EF code, as opposed to EF-S, which means it can be mounted on the camera also has a full-frame sensor.

- Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 IS USM
These lenses are categorized as telephoto zoom lens because it has a wide range of focal lengths from 70mm to 200mm.


- Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM

f/4.5-5.6L: Code "L" premises also known as "Luxury". Canon L lenses with code meaning expensive lenses made ​​for the purposes of professional photographers. -L lenses are the best lenses are made with a variety of focal length and aperture.
The codes on the lens that has been described above do not apply universally, the lens with the other brands (besides Canon) will give different codes to describe the features of the lens but it is not a problem because the structure of the code is the same between one brand of lens with another lens brand.

Here is the code that is common in other brands lens:

HSM: Abbreviation of Hypersonic Motor. That is the same as USM auto focus is faster and the bike is not noisy. This code is used on the output lens Sigma.

AF-S: Same with EF-S code, in the design for a camera with a cropped sensor type sensor. This code is used in the Nikon brand lenses.

SSM: Abbreviation of Supersonic Wave Motor. That is the same as USM auto focus is faster and not noisy. This code is used in the Sony lenses.

AF: Nikon lenses without auto focus built-in. At entry Nikon DSLR cameras such as the D60 and D5000 leveI, a lens with this code can not be used to auto focus, manual focus is done.

VR: It stands for Vibration Reduction, Image Stabilization function with. This code is used on the output of Nikon lenses.

OS: Abbreviation of Optical Stabilization, together with Image Stabilization function. This code is used on the output lens Sigma.

VC: It stands for Vibration Compensation, has the same function with Image Stabilization. This code is used on the Tamron lens.

DG: Code explains that the lens is a lens that can be used for the two types of sensors that can be used for a camera with a cropped sensor camera with a sensor and a full frame sensor. This code is used on the output lens Sigma.



Mode On DSLR Camera



Setting Mode on the camera is a great option's shooting in a variety of situations found in digital cameras. Fashion professional DSLR cameras tend to focus on Manual Mode, the camera pocket (pocket) focus to Auto Mode and the camera prosumer (semi DSLR) often use variations between Manual Mode and Auto Mode. Mode option in the camera is the same on different brands only found on different symbols used.



In general the camera modes that are often found on the camera is divided into:
1. Auto mode: Auto, Portrait, Macro, Landscape, Sports / Action, Night Shoot.
2. Semi Automatic Mode: Aperture Priority, Shutter Speed ​​Priority and Program
3. Manual mode

Auto Mode
In AUTO mode the whole setting of the performed automatically by the camera's settings including shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, focus and flash to take pictures as optimal as possible.


Macro Mode
Macro mode allows a photographer to move closer to the object to take a close up picture. Macros often used for photographing, insects, flowers or other small objects / macro. When using this mode the focus will be more difficult to obtain because of the depth of field of focus (depth of field) is very narrow, it is advisable to use a tripod to focus easily obtained.


Potrait Mode
If you select Portrait mode the camera automatically choose a large aperture (small f value) to blur the background and just focus on the object. This mode is good to use for photographing a single object so as to get close to the object distance, this mode can also recognize and focus on the human face.

Landscape Mode

It could be said that the Landscape mode is the inverse of the aperture in terms of the Portrait mode is used. Landscape provides a small aperture (large f value) so that the focal plane is more extensive. At the same time the camera also choose a slower shutter speed to compensate for the small aperture. This mode is good to use to photograph scenery.

Sport Mode/Action Mode
Sport Mode / Action ideal for capturing moving objects such as athletes are exercising, pets, cars, wild animals, etc.. This mode captures moving objects by increasing shutter speed and ISO

Night Shoot Mode
Night Shoot Mode (also called slow shutter) is used to take pictures with less lighting conditions, the camera automatically switches settings to a longer shutter speed. In this mode it is advisable to use a tripod because the shutter speed will require a stable long camera to produce images that are not blurred or blur.

Shutter Priority Mode  (S atau Tv; Time value)
Shutter Priority Mode is similar to Aperture Priority mode are controlled manually only is shutter speed while the other settings of the automatically selected by the camera.


Aperture Priority Mode  (A or Av; Aperture value)
This mode provides manual control of the aperture setting and the camera will select the settings of the other automatically (ISO, speed, white balance,  etc.) to get a good exposure.


Program Mode  (P)
This mode is similar to the AUTO mode but the Program mode gives little setting manually the aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

Manual mode
Manual mode gives the photographer full control to select the desired settings such as ISO, shutter speed, white balance, aperture, flash, etc..